Sunday, July 24, 2011

Old friends reunited...

Yesterday I journeyed to Nara to meet up with a friend I haven't seen in 10 years!  Actually, not just a friend but a sorority sister from my year at UNLV.  Shiho lives in Nagoya, so we decided to meet somewhere in between.  Turns out she hadn't visited Nara in 20 years.

We met for a delicious lunch of Okonomiyaki and Yakisoba, dishes traditional for Osaka and the Kansai region (should've taken a picture).  Then we wandered around for a few hours.  Our first attraction was Nara Park, home to hundreds of deer.   They are not like the deer back home: shorter, stalkier and still have their spots.  They are a national treasure and regarded as "heavenly animals, protecting the city and country", because it is believed a mythological god arrived on a white deer to protect the newly built capital.  Up until almost 1700, it was actually punishable by death to slaughter one.  For the most part they are tame, and vendors sell deer biscuits.  There are signs though warning that the deer are wild animals and showed pictures that it was possible they would knock you down, head butt you, bite you, and there was even one of the deer stealing a woman's purse.  It was interesting to see that the deer don't go after the biscuits sitting there at the vendor stands, but the moment the biscuits are in the hand of a human...


Shiho barely got the biscuits over to me without the deer stealing them from her.  Even just sitting on a park bench we would be confronted by deer.  They tried to steal Shiho's tea from her purse and twice they stole the map out of mine.  Only about half the map remained after two tug-of-war battles with the deer, but at least it was the part showing the locations of the shrines :)



We also visited the Toodai-ji and the Daibutsuden within.  The last picture is of an old model of the grounds scaled 1:50.







Shiho and I made a donation and were able to sign a roof tile.  


We went to the Nara national museum afterwards.  Since it was so hot, it felt nice to walk around in air-conditioning for a couple hours.  There was a special exhibit on Xuanxang's 30,000-kilometer Buddhist pilgrimage to India.  On display was half of the Genjoo Sanzoo e, a pictorial biogrpahy of the priest's life.  We also saw several scrolls of the Daihannyakyo, The Great Wisdom Sutra, which were brought back from India and translated to Chinese.  Several ancient Buddhist statues were on display at the museum as well.  After our long day of wandering around Nara, we ended the day with dinner at a conveyer belt sushi restaurant.


We parted ways at the train station, but we will get to see each other at least once more when Jesse and I stop in Nagoya for the night on the way to Tokyo.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

My holiday-weekend adventures in Osaka and Kyoto...

I had a very good time in Osaka and Kyoto.  I managed to get on all the right trains and find my way around for the most part, no huge disasters at least :)  I was very excited to travel to Osaka, as it is the closest city to me with an Argentine tango community (the main purpose for my travels this weekend).

I arrived Friday in Osaka early evening and after a quick stop at the information desk, I boarded my first subway train in Japan and found the hotel.  After getting cleaned up, the hotel desk suggested taking a cab to the cafe.  I had the address and the general area, but the cab driver wasn't too sure exactly where it was.  He was very nice and called them for better directions.  I got there and joined the tango class.  It was a very beginner class, but it was fun nonetheless.  I did manage to dance with a leader who didn't even come up to my shoulders, very challenging but somehow I managed.  The instructors were from Argentina and were very nice.  I stayed for the milonga which was a lot of fun too.  Everything took place at a cafe called Cafetin de Buenos Aires.  It was a very small and intimate atmosphere perfect for dancing tango.


After the milonga I tried to catch a cab back to my hotel.   My adventures so far were just going too well, so something was bound to go wrong.  I got in the cab, told the driver the name of the hotel and the subway station right below it and then showed him the address and location on a map.  He started saying something but I couldn't understand him.  So I just repeated the name of the hotel and subway station and again showed it to him on the map.  He started yelling at me then eventually opened the door and kicked me out of the cab.  Not knowing what to do, I went back to the cafe and tried explaining what happened.  Fortunately, the people there spoke enough English to understand me, but I must have just been very tired and frustrated because as I was explaining the tears started rolling.  They were very nice and felt bad for what had happened.  So they offered me a drink and some chocolate (chocolate always makes things better!) and said they would help me to get a cab.  The cafe owner sent one of her waitresses to help me find one.  She said there are some really good and really bad companies, so we tried to find one of the good ones.  Unfortunately all were reserved, even at the main stand for one company there was like a 20 minute wait.  So we kept searching.  Eventually we found one, but they were headed the wrong direction down a one-way street and the driver said he would take me but it would cost almost 3 times as much.  We then headed to the street going the opposite direction, but that was like a good 15 minute walk at least up a small road.  Sachi told me to stay close because it wasn't the best area to be wandering around in late at night.  We eventually made it to the other street and found a cab.  She explained to him where I wanted to go, he said no problem and I finally made it back to the hotel.

During the day on Saturday I wandered around Osaka, and figured what could I do in a big city... shopping!  I figured I would get it out of the way now so Jesse wouldn't have to deal with it when he arrives :)  I didn't buy much, but a ton of socks!  The Japanese have the cutest socks, so I stocked up on some for me and my mom.  Also found some cute leggings and one crochet sweater.  Believe it or not, I found shoes that fit me, and I was tempted by one pair, but they didn't have the color I wanted.  I have gotten pretty comfortable traveling by subway and made it back to hotel with ease.  I got cleaned up and then headed to the main station to meet Yanina, another student in the JSPS summer program.  She was very interested in seeing tango, so we met for dinner then I took her to the cafe.  I didn't attend the lesson, because with the guest instructors from Argentina I felt it was quite over-priced for a beginning lesson.  For Yanina's introduction to tango she got quite a show.  It was live music, an all woman 3-piece group with piano, violin and bandoneon.  I was quite excited too, as I have never danced to, let alone heard, live tango music.  The picture is a little blurry, but I didn't want to have the flash on.  In center mirror you can see the pianist.


The instructors also did a couple performances.  This one is their performance to the live music.


We left fairly early to make sure we got back to the train station in time for Yanina to catch her last train back, and for me to catch the subway to my hotel.  The next morning I caught a very early train to Kyoto so that I would arrive by around 7:30 am.  Sunday was one of the big events for the Gion Matsuri (one of the most famous festivals in Japan).  I wanted to make sure I had time to drop my bags off at the hostel and then find a good place to catch the parade of Yamahoko floats.  There were 32 floats in total: 

9 Hoko floats (about 25m high and weighing 12,000kg, takes 30-40 men to pull) 



23 Yama floats (about 6m high and weighing 1,600kg, takes 14-24 men to push/pull/carry)



It took about 2 and a half hours from the time the first float went by to the last.  It also takes about 3 hours for one float to go the entire route.  One very interesting thing, apparently you don't have to be Japanese to take part in this.  Note the very tall caucasian on the left in the picture below.



The procession started and stopped numerous times throughout the duration.  Each time they were stopped, there would be some chanting (perhaps words of encouragement to those pulling) before they started again.


This float was my favorite.  If the crowd cheered or clapped enough, it would wave or flutter its wings.



And of course a picture of me enjoying the parade.



Each hour it seemed to get hotter and hotter.  Where else but in Japan can you find a chilled cucumber on a stick, with mayo and miso as condiments.  Quite refreshing actually :)



After wandering around for another 4 hours, I could finally get checked in to the hostel.  I was really feeling the need for a shower and a nap.  However, after the shower I saw some people heading to the kitchen and common area so I thought I would check it out.  I learned they were having a dinner party, and I was invited to attend.

I had my first experience with Nagashi-somen.  They assembled a bamboo water-slide, and after the noodles are cooked, they send them down the slide and you have to catch them with your chopsticks.





I also got to see how Takoyaki is made.  Sooo delicious!







The J-Hoppers hostel was great and I am glad that I found it.  It has been years since I last stayed at a hostel (my back-packing days in Europe before my study abroad in 2004?), and this was probably my best hostel experience by far.  Everyone was very friendly and it felt more like a community than a place to crash for the night.  I think I will definitely stay there again when I take Jesse to visit Kyoto.



Monday was a holiday and I had planned to spend the day seeing more of Kyoto before catching the train home, but it was pouring rain so I decided to just head for the station.  Turns out Typhoon Ma-On (category 1) has reached Japan.  The worst for the Wakayama area will reach tonight between 9pm and 3am.  I am in Iwade south of Osaka, maybe about 1/2 way between the symbol at the center of the circle and the coast directly to the west.



So... I've experienced and earthquake already and I'm about to experience my first typhoon, what other natural disasters will I see during my stay here... perhaps a volcano eruption?

Friday, July 15, 2011

My first big adventure...

I just boarded the train to Osaka! This will be my first big adventure in Japan on my own. I'll stay in Osaka to attend a couple tango classes and milongas both tonight and tomorrow night. Apparently it will be live music tomorrow! Then Sunday morning I'm headed to Kyoto super early to see the big parade for the Gion festival and stay the night there for the festivities. I've been in contact with a couple students in each city that are with the same program, and found hostels in all the right places. Wish me luck and happy tango dancing!
Published with Blogger-droid v1.7.2

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

I got to put my dancin shoes on!!

After almost a month in Japan, I finally got to put my tango shoes on and do some dancing!  I finally made it to the ballroom studio in the town where I live.  I joined the group lesson, and tonight they focussed on Argentine tango :)  Although it was just a beginning tango lesson, it still felt so good to dance.  Hopefully this weekend I'll get the courage to head to Osaka and go to their milonga.  

Other exciting news, I felt my first earthquake in Japan.  Last Tuesday I was at home fixing dinner, when there was some loud creaking noises and the building felt like it was rocking.  It lasted less than a minute and I wasn't quite sure what it was at first.  I figured it was an earthquake but couldn't find anything immediately afterwards on the internet.  The next day at work my labmates asked if I felt the earthquake.  It was in the same prefecture I live in and was a 5.5, but what we felt here in Iwade was about a 3 (http://earthquake-report.com/2011/07/06/strong-very-dangerous-earthquake-below-hirogawa-wakayama-prefecture-japan/).  

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Finishing out my second week in Iwade and Kinokawa

Nothing too exciting this week, but some good stories to share.  There was a grad student from Nepal who was finishing up so we took a group photo the day he left.  From left to right Sunil (India), Matsuo-san, Maeno-san, Professor Akaksaka, me, Shah (Nepal), and Jodai-san. 


My second to last night staying at the professor's house, I was again put to work picking fruit.  Professor has somewhat close to 10 acres of farm land, where he has biwas, kiwis, oranges, and much more.  After  a long evening of picking biwas (very small fruit most similar to an apricot but you have to peel it before eating and it has a few medium size seeds inside), we went out for chinese food and then I had my first experience at a public bath.  That was interesting, and of course I have no pictures of it.  I was a little nervous at first, but once I got passed being without clothes in front of a few women (the men's and women's baths were separate), it was quite nice.  It was like a big sauna, powered by natural hot springs and there were several pools both inside and outside.   I could only last about 20 minutes.  My last night at the professor's house he took me to my first conveyer belt sushi restaurant.  It was neat seeing all the different (and some quite weird) sushi that would come around.  So there were several rows with about 4 tables on each side, and the conveyer belt went up and down each row.  We were in the second row and quite often I would see something that looked good, but by the time it came around to us it was gone.   It pays to be in the first row; however, you can special order on a touch screen at the table then it will come on the conveyer belt but raised on top of a bowl so people know it is reserved.  At the end, there is a slot at the table you put all the plates through and it counts them so the server knows how much was eaten by that table (it was about 105yen per plate, so not bad).


I am now moved into my apartment.  Once I am settled in a little more I will share some pictures.  It is small but very cute.  At night you can hear tons of frogs croaking (I am surrounded by rice fields).  Coming home one evening from work, I saw something hopping out of the corner of my eye.  Kind of difficult to see, but there is a tiny frog in the picture below.


Even before arriving here I had intentions of purchasing a bicycle to get around here.  Last weekend, the post doc whose apartment I was taking over took me by bus to see it and to get to know the bus route.  After realizing it would be about 500 yen ($6) a day to ride the bus, my decision to buy a bicycle was solidified.  The professor took me to a Japanese equivalent of Walmart after visiting a small bicycle store in town, which only had single speed bikes.  I saw a number of the single speeds, then I saw a 3 speed (which may have been okay), but then I saw a 6 speed!  It is no fabulous mountain bike, but I think 6 speed is the best I would probably be able to find here.  So $160 gets you a 6 speed bike, with a basket already attached, a lock build on to the back tire, a bell, and a head light turns on at night if the bike is in motion.  I thought it a pretty good deal, considering it would save me about $100 from riding the bus everyday (plus I would get the exercise).  It is nothing fancy, but has everything I need for my summer here in Kinokawa and Iwade.  Mine is the white bike in the center.


Unfortunately, Friday (the day after I purchased the bike) was pouring rain so I decided to take the bus since I wasn't quite sure where I could park the bike.  There are special bike parking lots, and if you park elsewhere on campus, security will confiscate the bike.  I also decided I wanted to purchase a good rice cooker here to take back to the states with me (where better to buy one right?).  The professor pointed out the biggest electronics shop in town and said I would be best off going there.  Once I found a few other things I needed (surge protector, USB hub, etc)  I sought out the rice cookers.  There were about 3 rows with almost 50 different rice cookers ranging from $30-$300.  I walked around for about 30 minutes looking at each one, trying to figure out what I wanted.  Eventually, I tried to communicate with a sales person about finding the right one, and about all I could say to them in Japanese was: small, not too expensive, and few days (it would keep the rice warm for a few days if all was not eaten right away).  So they understood what I was looking for and took me over to one is specific.  Apparently I also can hard boil eggs, steam vegetables and to some extent use it as a pressure cooker.  It is very cute and small, and as Jesse puts it... it looks like a radio.


The buttons are all in Japanese, but fortunately during orientation the instructor gave us a Kanji cheat sheet that included TV remotes, air conditioning, and... rice cookers!!!  So I was able to figure out what the main buttons were for.  On the bottom, the right most is to start cooking, the middle a delayed cooking setting, and the left for just keeping warm.  As for the settings I know the top one, which the arrow is pointing to is white rice, the bottom I think is brown rice and the middle maybe other?  And those on the top I have no clue (good thing my grandmother is Japanese and lives at home with us, eh?). So after purchasing my rice cooker, I needed to go buy some rice to try it out with.  I also stocked up on the following so I could have Japanese style breakfasts... (Miso soup, seasoning, pickles, and tiny dried fish!)


I also decided that instead of leftovers (I made stir-fry the night before), I would pick up some sashimi and Japanese beer.  All sashimi and prepared foods go 50% off after sometime around 5pm.  So I got quite a bit of sashimi grade fish for $6!


At the end of the weekend, I had my bike, my rice cooker, some cooking and eating utensils, cleaning supplies, my dry goods stocked and my fridge full


I'm enjoying having a bike, but it definitely is a workout when it is 90+ degrees and close to 100% humidity.  After riding my bike a total of an hour and a half on Saturday to go to the stores to get all the household things I needed, I enjoyed a the air conditioning in my apartment!  And also just the alone time!  Since I arrived here in Japan, I have been constantly with people around the clock and on someone else's schedule.  So it was really nice to just be able to have a quiet evening alone in my new home.  Today was a bit of an adventure too.  I had an idea where the dance studio was, so I decided to hop on the bike and try to find it.  I followed the streets shown on the map but still couldn't find it after 45 minutes or so.  I did finally get to see the Kinokawa river!


Hardly any buildings have street numbers, and the street numbers do not make any sense at all.  Apparently the first building in the area is numbered one, and each building after gets the next number.  So it is quite difficult to find a specific address.  I  checked the GPS on the phone and it appeared that I was way past the studio.  So I turned back and after about 15 minutes I thought I'd come to the right place.  There were 2 buildings and I wasn't sure which was it (all signs of course are in Japanese).  After staring at each building for about 10 minutes, I eventually saw that one had a figure of two people dancing.  I was very excited to find the studio, and know that it was only about a 25 minute bike ride from the apartment.

On the way to the studio I had noticed a little street party happening next to the athletic club.  On the way back from the studio I decided to check it out.  Turns out it was the 25th anniversary of the opening of the athletic club.  There were a few different food and drink vendors, and one caught my attention.  They tried to explain the type of sandwich (it was like a giant wafer with an egg, meat, seasoning and mayonaise).  I eventually gave in and said ok, it was only 50 yen so why not?  I took my "sandwich" over to a table where a woman with her children was sitting.  I pointed to the empty chairs and said "okay?" and she smiled and said ok back so I sat down and prepared to eat.  Then one of the girls from that food stand came over and invited me to join them.  She spoke some English.  Once I sat down, the girl next to me wanted a picture taken, then one by one others joined until everyone was in the picture.  After attempting some conversations, it started raining.  I tried to wait it out, but it was just getting worse.  One of the girls offered me a ride home, because she had a van and my bike would fit in it.  So I made my first Japanese friends today, and will hopefully get to see them again.



Well it is late on a Sunday night, and I want to be able to get up early before it gets really hot to ride my bike to work (if it isn't pouring rain again).  I have really enjoyed finally having some alone time and am very happy with the apartment I was given.